A Year of Wellness Series: May 2021- Midlife Skin Care

Anti-aging skin care is a multi-million dollar market that targets midlife women looking to preserve their youthfulness.  But how do you know what’s worth investing your money in?  There are thousands of products for sale and it’s difficult to know which is right for your skin type.  And to add even more confusion, our skin type often goes through changes at midlife so what may have worked for you in the past might not work now.  Midlife skin care is a challenge!  I used to have combination skin that bordered on oily at times.  Now that I’m 50, my skin is normal to dry usually.

This is the fifth in my Year of Wellness Series.  I’m writing a monthly blog post on my path to improving my health through small improvements each month of 2021.  Part one of my year of wellness series is about assessing your health and lifestyle and then using that information to make a list of small and attainable goals throughout the next year that are specific and tailored to you and your needs.  You can find that blog article here. Part two is on Ways to Sleep Better at Midlife.  Part three is about Daily Fluid Intake During Menopause.  And part four is all about How To Declutter To Improve Your Health.

It’s hard to determine what is truth and what is hype in advertising.  I’ve looked at a lot of research studies about products and ingredients in midlife skin care products and this blog post is all about the information that I’ve found.  I hope that it will help you decide on the best skin care products for you to use at midlife as well as how to take care of your skin at midlife.

The skin is our largest organ.  It protects us from environmental toxins and microorganisms, as well as helping to regulate our body temperature, hydration, sensation and protecting our internal tissues and organs.  Keeping our skin as healthy as possible is key to keeping us physiologically and psychologically healthy (1).

As we age, we start to see wrinkles, fine lines, sagging, dark spots and hyperpigmentation and these changes can affect us psychologically.  But what we might not see are some of the other changes that are occurring that can affect our health.  Our epidermis thins and the rate of skin cell turnover slows (2).  We have less hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin so our skin is less strong and elastic as it once was, as well as numerous other changes that occur.  Our genetic and Menopausal hormone changes have a part to play in how our skin ages, but the greatest determination of skin aging are our lifestyle factors and exposure to environmental stressors that contribute to the skin’s decrease in structure and function.  These include:

• Smoking
• Poor diet and poor fluid intake (3)
• Pollution (4)
• UV and Blue light radiation (5)
• Poor health/chronic illness
• Excessive stress
• Lack of sleep
• Drugs and alcohol
• Excess sugar (6,7)
• Chemicals and impurities in skin care products and cosmetics (8)

Many embrace the changes to their skin as they age.  While I appreciate my age and the confidence, wisdom, and happiness that I have now, I do hesitate at some of the wrinkles and sagging that I have been seeing.  Most days I feel like I’m still 29, but my face, neck and hands say otherwise 😉. And working for many years as a Skin & Wound Care Consultant, I am keenly aware of the need to take care of my skin so I don’t have issues into my elderly years.  Most people over 65 have at least one skin disorder (2).  And although I am not near 65 yet, I already have been diagnosed with Rosacea.  I’d rather not add any more disorders to the mix!

To help your skin look and function at its best at midlife and beyond consider these midlife skin care strategies:

1. Wear sunscreen every day, even if it’s cloudy. The number one reason our skin shows signs of aging faster than it should is from exposure to UVA/UVB rays (6).  Sun damage also contributes to skin cancer!  Use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 and broad spectrum coverage for UVA/UVB rays.  Consider products with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as they are effective and less likely to cause skin sensitivities.
2. Shower or bathe less often as you age, and don’t use too hot of water. This can strip the skin of its natural oils and contribute to dryness.
3. Don’t smoke or stop smoking if you can. Smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature aging of the skin.
4. Increase your fluid intake. Moisturize the tissues from the inside out.
5. Eat a healthy diet that contains a lot of fruits, vegetables and whole grains. Healthy skin starts from the inside.  Decrease your sugar and simple carbohydrate intake.
6. Get enough sleep – at least 7 hours per day, if able.
7. Exercise! It increases blood flow to our tissues which delivers oxygen and nutrients to keep our skin healthy.  And it encourages a healthy glow!
8. Decrease your stress levels as much as you can. See my post on Mindfulness which can help you with this.
9. If you live in a dry climate, consider using a humidifier to increase the air moisture in your home. You may also need to consider using a thicker moisturizer as well if the air is very dry.
10. Consider exfoliating your skin to slough off the old skin cells. This allows your skin care products to absorb better into your skin.
11. Avoid products with fragrances that may cause sensitivities. And use caution with products that are labelled “unscented” as they may still contain a masking fragrance.
12. Avoid products with alcohol in them- very drying.
13. Decrease your alcohol intake as well. Alcohol is very dehydrating to our body and skin.
14. Use a gentle skin cleanser and cleanse your face twice a day.
15. Moisturize your skin after cleansing. At least twice daily, and after showering/bathing.  Don’t forget about your neck!

 

Farage and colleagues have indicated that for midlife women, “Estrogen therapy reverses the thinning of aging skin by both increasing collagen synthesis and retarding collagen degradation, decreases wrinkles by stimulating the synthesis of type III collagen and hyaluronic acids, and increases skin hydration and barrier function, making aging skin less dry” (2).  Of course, the concerns with long-term use of hormone replacement therapy continue and should be discussed with your physician or healthcare professional.

In my 20’s and 30’s I remember being told that I should always wash my face twice daily and do a step-by-step routine which includes cleansing, toning, serum, eye cream, moisturizer, sunscreen, primer, and of course and exfoliator and facial masque once a week.  Who has time for that when you’re raising children and working full time?  I sure didn’t!  I was lucky to wash my face twice a day and apply moisturizer and SPF.

There is some evidence that a midlife skin care regimen involving thorough cleansing, exfoliation, and sebum reduction can improve skin hydration, elasticity, softness and radiance (9).  Now that I have a little more time in life, I’ve reconsidered this recommendation and have implemented a skin care routine that has helped me immensely with my skin’s radiance and clarity.

To not waste my money and know what types of products I should be using that will benefit my skin, I looked at the studies that have been done for some of the products and ingredients.  Here is what I’ve found that are best for midlife skin care:

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s) are plant and animal derived acids that help to remove the top layers of dead skin cells as well as increasing the skin’s thickness and firmness.  They can be irritating, especially at higher percentages, so use cautiously if you have sensitive skin.  It’s a good idea to start slowly with AHA’s, with every other day use, or even every 2 days to start, and increase slowly over the next few weeks.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is one of the most used AHA’s in skin care products because of its small molecular size, making it easier to absorb through the skin.  It is derived from sugar cane or can be synthetically generated.  Glycolic acid at 10% and up has been shown to decrease fine lines and wrinkles and increase hydration of the skin.  Those at 25% and up have shown increased epidermal thickness and increased production of hyaluronic acid and collagen (6).  A 70% Glycolic acid facial peel along with moisturizers was also shown to have efficacy in decreasing the signs of aging (10).

Ferulic Acid

A small study in 2020 showed using 14% Ferulic Acid peels and microneedling increased skin elasticity, smoothed skin tone, and increased moisture (11).   Of course, this would involve a dermatologist prescription and treatment.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are molecules that decrease the damage caused by free radicals.  Ingesting foods rich in antioxidants has been shown to have increased health benefits by capturing the free radicals that can cause chronic disease, thereby delaying the aging process (1).  Free radicals are generated by the body in response to environmental and lifestyle stressors such as UVA/UVB radiation, pollution, etc.  The free radicals cause cell damage which can contribute to disease as well as aging.  Eating a diet rich in antioxidants can assist with decreasing the skin damage caused by free radicals.  This can consist of foods such as pecans, berries, kale, artichokes, beans, beets, spinach, garlic, red wine and chocolate.  The Mediterranean Diet is a diet that contains many of these antioxidants and can be beneficial for you to reduce age related skin changes (12).

Coenzyme Q10

Coenzyme Q10 is a powerful free radical inhibitor.  It has been shown to be very effective in protecting against free radicals as well as decreasing fine lines and wrinkles when ingested (14).  It remains to be seen though whether topical skin care preparations are as effective as oral ingestion of Coenzyme Q10 – so you may want to stick to supplements for now.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E decreases in our body as we age, so supplementation helps protect the skin against free radicals.  This is often found in topical skin care products as well.  Vitamin E protects against these free radicals, which helps protect against photo aging.  It is often not needed to orally supplement due to the topical use in midlife skin care products (14).

Vitamin C

Vitamin C protects and rejuvenates damaged skin.  Topical Vitamin C can decrease wrinkles, enhance the appearance of aged skin and lighten hyperpigmentation like freckles and age spots.  Oral and topical supplementation are both beneficial.  If using topically, L-Ascorbic Acid Anhydrous water free form is best for long-term stability of the product (6, 14).  If using this topically, use at bedtime and store the product in dark/opaque containers as it may become inactive if exposed to sunlight and air.

Alpha Lipoic Acid

Some studies have shown promising effects of decreasing aging of the skin and protection of photo aging with the use of Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA). Another name for ALA is Thioctic acid.   ALA is a naturally occurring fatty acid that may decrease inflammation and skin aging in the body (15).  Be cautious with the use of concentrations greater than 5% as can cause stinging/burning sensation.

Curcumin

Curcumin has long been known to be an anti-inflammatory, and its benefits for midlife skin care are increasing in popularity.  It is a potent antioxidant, antimicrobial, as well as anti-inflammatory and benefits the skin by reducing wrinkles, dark circles, and promoting radiant skin.  It also has the potential to heal some skin disorders, although more studies need to be done to determine the extent (16).

Retinol

Vitamin A (Retinol) is a very effective antioxidant that decreases inflammation, increases smoothness of the skin, decreases dryness and skin thinning (17), decreases the signs of aging, and brightens the skin (18,6).  It is used in many over the counter preparations as well as prescription strength formulations.  It can be very irritating when you first start using it, causing redness and flaking.  Consider slowly working up to daily use, or even mixing with a moisturizer to buffer it, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Polyphenols

Polyphenols are antioxidants that capture free radicals to decrease the effects of sun damaged aging (1).  You can find polyphenols in tea leaves, cocoa, dark chocolate, berries and other fruits, beans, nuts, veggies, and spices.  They appear to be more effective as an antioxidant than Vitamin E and C and can be used topically or orally. Plant polyphenols are important substances for skin function, with hydrating, smoothing, softening and astringent effects, as well as soothing irritation and reducing the redness of skin, accelerating the natural regeneration of the epidermis, stabilizing the capillaries, improving microcirculation and elasticity in the skin, and protecting against harmful external factors, including UV radiation (19).

Resveratrol

Resveratrol which is found in grape seed/skin is being used more often now in midlife skin care formulations.  It is shown in studies to stimulate collagen production and help protect against UV damage and photo-aging of the skin (13).  It is also a potent anti-inflammatory which can help to decrease irritation and create clear skin.

Collagen

Although there have been a few studies on the use of collagen peptides in anti-aging products, the studies do have some methodological limitations and more studies need to be done to give a true indication of whether collagen peptides are worth spending your money on (20,21).  However, a study of topical application and oral supplementation of peptides showed the topical application increased skin water content and elasticity after 28 days and reducing thinning of the skin after 90 days.  With the oral supplementation added, there was increased skin elasticity and a more pronounced effect on skin thickness and reduced pore size after 90 days (22).

Recent studies in 2020 indicate possible benefits to aging skin and prevention of wrinkles with the use of collagen supplementation (23,24). And a review of studies on collagen supplementation shows that results are promising for the short and long-term use of oral collagen supplements for skin aging, by increasing skin elasticity, hydration, and dermal collagen density (25).

Ceramides

Ceramides are lipids (fats) that help keep our skin strong and supple and prevent moisture loss.  Age and skin damage can reduce or weaken the amount of ceramides present in our skin, leading to aging and decreased skin integrity.  Ceramides have been shown to be effective at decreasing dryness and increasing skin hydration after one application.  After 28 days they have been shown to decrease wrinkles, optimize skin hydration and pH and improve skin texture (26).  Because of their ability to increase the skin’s strength, they are a good choice for people with sensitive skin to reduce sensitivity.  Some people use them with products such as Retinol which can cause irritation to sensitive skin.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid is a naturally occurring sugar that draws moisture into the skin helping to plump and remove fine lines.  As we age, the amount of Hyaluronic Acid decreases in our body.  It is used in dermal fillers to restore plumpness to tissues but can also be used in creams and gels due to variations in its molecular weight (27).  Consider applying this product when you are just out of the shower or bath, and after cleansing as it works best when the skin is moist/wet.  Or consider layering with a moisturizer for best results.  If you apply on dry skin, it will have a tendency to draw moisture out of the deeper tissues, causing skin dryness instead!

There are many harmful chemicals or toxins found in everyday cosmetics and skin care products that we may not be aware of.  It’s important to check the ingredients of the products you are using to ensure they are non-toxic.  I prefer to use products that are plant based as much as possible, and the demand for this is rising in the world of skin care.  Thus, the natural beauty industry is increasing quickly with innovative technology and natural ingredients as more consumers demand healthier options.

I hope that this look at the latest research in midlife skin care helps you to discern what strategies might work for you.  Each of us is different in what will work for us, and it may take some trial and error in finding what products work for you.  There is so much more information in skin care that I haven’t included in this very long post already, and if I’ve not included something that you use it doesn’t mean that there isn’t evidence of its efficacy.  I just had to stop at some point!  If you have a product and you’d like to know what the latest research says about it, leave a comment or send me an email and I’ll see what I can find!

I hope that you will join me in this Year of Wellness, even if you don’t have many changes to make.  You can create your own goals and plans for wellness as it works for you.  If you have any questions or concerns, send me an email!

Also, don’t forget to sign up for my newsletter below.  This gives you access to all of the printables in my resource library.  Signing up for my newsletter also gives you updates on my blog articles as well as the Year of Wellness Series.

Please note that while I am a registered nurse, I am not your nurse and my opinions above do not constitute or replace medical advice.  Please discuss any questions or concerns with your dermatologist, physician or health care provider.   Also, see my disclaimer here for more information.

 

Take care,

References:

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2. Farage MA, Miller KW, Elsner P, Maibach HI. Characteristics of the Aging Skin. Adv Wound Care (New Rochelle). 2013;2(1):5-10. doi:10.1089/wound.2011.0356
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